Time for Fasching, the season of Karneval.

The Austrians really enjoy relaxing with friends, sharing company and food, and celebrating whatever the current season happens to be.  The season that began on November, 11 at 11:11 am, is Fasching, the German name for the season of Carnival/Mardi Gras.  Too soon, you say?  Au contraire! The kick-off was in the Inner City, where hundreds of us (including yours truly with her husband) danced the waltz in the company of many others and a few professionals and dancing instructors.  It was chaos and crazy and fun. November 11 is also "Martin's Day", when roast goose is traditionally served.  (But not by me.)

The Austrian military band provides accompaniment

Lined up to lean the steps.  Instructors are at the far end on the stage in black, describing the steps.

A few days before this event, we went to the "Balcondo" - the inaugural night of a month-long a Capella festival.  For the first evening, many of the groups performed on balconies, in churches, and on the street around the Inner City, showcasing their talents.  The groups were fairly good overall, with many singing American Oldies and throwing in some funny motions or sounds.  The festival is called "Voice Mania".

Quintessenz

Aquabella

There were some very talented African singers.  It was all quite fun.  But our kids weren't too impressed.

The temperature dropped last week, and it's the first time I felt like I've needed my winter coat during the day.  Without the winds of Ohio, it still doesn't feel so bad.  Since OH just had a dusting of snow, it still seems like autumn here.  I think the Viennese just don't like any degree of cold; they have been bundled up for the last few weeks.  They keep the buses/trains and shops very warm so you are faced with stripping off the layers or sweating away while you are inside.  Other Americans seem to agree with me.

We will attend a Thanksgiving dinner party, hosted by an American student at Craig's office. Without friends and the whole family around, it won't quite feel the same, but should be enjoyable nonetheless.   I'm glad someone else is taking care of the turkey; you have to per-order them if you want one and you may not end up with an actual turkey.  I will need to figure out how to get the ingredients I need for the dishes I am bringing.   I'll have to tap into my hunter/gather ancestry.  It's been fine-tuned the last few months looking for edible vegetables and meats.

So much to tell you about....

Carissa did celebrate Halloween here, a holiday still not generally accepted except by some young people. Here it is the older kids, perhaps 8 to 14 or so, who get dressed in only scary or gruesome costumes, and like to throw eggs.  There are a few kids who go trick-or-treating (or as they say here "sweet or sour!") but not too many who answer the door.  Many older folks are vocal about their opposition to this entirely un-Austrian tradition should you be so unlucky to ring their bell.  Carissa made a very cute peacock costume and enjoyed herself.  The other girls she was with didn't really expect any response from anyone, so were pleased with the (quite reasonable) amount of candy they collected.

The following day is All Saints Day, a national holiday here.  We didn't get out to see the lighted and decorated cemeteries, but I like the whole idea of honoring the lives of the family who came before you. Like central and south America, they do it up big here.

We got back to the zoo again and are more impressed than ever.  Toledo has a great zoo. But this one is even bigger, with many more animals (4 giraffes, 6 elephants, etc).  I was able to sit in the sunshine on a very nice day and do some sketching while the others wandered around to see the exhibits we missed the first time.

We also made a weekend trip to Salzburg, to reconnect with our best friends from our time there.  It was wonderful to see them all and the kids that we knew as preschoolers.  They all speak good English so Matthew was able to get in some good board and computer games, and we were able to laugh, eat and drink with the parents.  Carissa had to rely on her ever-improving German to play with the younger girls, but also had a good time.  We did a wonderful hike on a warm and sunny Saturday, with a gorgeous view of the entire Salzkammergut region - lakes and mountains and villages.  I think it's the prettiest place on earth.  On Sunday we explored the town again and felt quite at home.  We were treated like royalty and the food and Prosecco was top shelf!

Calling all the lovely ladies:  Leonie & Eva,  Lydia & Amelie, Maria & Carissa

We even got to see hang gliders taking off from the top of the mountain.

There is a bridge across the Salzach River that has the distinction of being a place that couples commemorate getting married / getting together.  The tradition is to get a lock, write your names and the date on it, lock it onto the bridge, and throw the key in the river.  This signifies the permanency of the commitment. Matthew speculated that those using combination locks were hedging their bets.

Our friend, Amelie Schrader, at the "lock bridge"

Of course, the kids had to play with the same chess set the older boys did 8 years ago.
Amelie is filling in for the missing piece.

After a weekend of indulging in all sorts of foods, and feeling no bad effects, I discovered a wonderful secret.  The wheat/bread/gluten in Europe is different than the states (and Canada and Australia) and I am able to eat it with no negative consequences.  After doing a little looking online, I discovered that the different variety of seeds, climate, elevation, weather, as well as milling and processing practices make for quite a different product in the end.  In addition, in the states the flour products are routinely given extra yeast for a faster rising process and are generally not quite baked enough (all the faster to eat you, my dear), which leads to intestinal trouble.  The end result is....I can enjoy the bakery and the confectionery shops like a native.  I will still need to experiment a bit to see if I have any fatigue, depending on the degree of consumption.

Playing life-sized chess in Salzburg motivated Matthew to be creative at our own place:

Although it's still a pain to shop, and the local supermarket produce and meat leaves a lot to be desired, it looks like in many ways we are eating healthier than those of you in the US.  Check out: http://eatlocalgrown.com/article/11944-banned-foods.html.  Almost all of these are banned in the EU so maybe a bit of detox going on for us.

Discovered another curious thing here. Some doctors don't take appointments.  You just go during their office hours and put your name on the list.  You never know how long the wait will be.  I got a recommendation of a good doctor who speaks English, and luckily I was the third in line.  I needed to get a lab slip to check my thyroid and it was all a painless process.  I know the pediatrician takes appointments here, but I guess not all of them do.  I can't see the upside for this but it must work for someone!  The "socialist nightmare" of the medical system is nothing close:  quick, efficient, well-managed and free for all to see the doctor, go to a lab, get the results, get the prescription.  Let's all work for a one-payer system in the US.  I can't believe we tolerate insurance companies getting rich by being middle-men and millions not being able to get coverage.  It costs all of us more the way it is.  Oh, except for the politicians who get theirs free.

Thanks to all who remembered and helped me celebrate my birthday.  It was a lovely week of quiet celebration. Craig and the kids treated me to flowers and a nice dinner together:

I also went the following weekend by myself, back to Salzburg to celebrate with them.  My friend Lydia bought a 1/2 pig and it was time to butcher that weekend!

The beautiful farmhouse

Pre-pork chops

Supervising the schnitzels and steaks

Time to bag and label it all...Lydia and her mom at work.

The next month will easily be filled with the lovely Christmas markets here, which have lovely things to sell and a great atmosphere.  I saw decorations and stalls going up downtown and so it will be starting soon. They are great fun.  The "big" boys are coming on Dec. 16 for Christmas and will stay for 3 weeks.  I am so excited I can't stand it!!!

Happy Thanksgiving to those in the US.  I hope you enjoy the time with your family and friends.  We will be with you in spirit and we wish you many continued blessings in the coming year.