Matthew and Carissa Down by the School Yard......

School is in its third week here in Vienna (they start even later in Salzburg) and it has been another series of "teachable moments" for us all.  It took us awhile to settle on a school.  The process began for the locals in February so we are late to the party.  Add to this that there is no one at the schools until a few days before classes start (and even then, only around unpredictably and part-time), and we were scrambling to get everything together. Every child is guaranteed a spot in the Vienna school district, but not necessarily in the school they want or in a school that is conveniently located.  International and American schools are quite expensive - usually at least in the $40,000 per year range. Luckily, we wanted a more "typical" experience for the kids. The public schools vary in quality depending on the location.  In our area, the public school with the best reputation and which is closest, was beyond full.  We are in a wealthy district so the schools near here are in high demand. The second-closest school never called us back.  Luckily, in the meantime, we found a school not too far away that has a bilingual program, putting the kids' minds at ease, although the 25 minute trip takes 2 buses and a tram.  They haven't had to do it very often since one of Carissa's classmates lives close by and her mother has been generously taking the kids most days.  By car from the friend's home, the trip is about 10 minutes. The whole school is not a bilingual program; each grade has a bilingual class.

Linzerstrasse School
 (Schools are usually named for the streets they are on; this one is on Linzer Street)

Schools here are a bit different than in the USA:  Kindergarten is for 3-5 year olds and is play-based.  Primary school is for (our) grades 1-4, usually about 1/2 day and doesn't get too academic until closer to the 4th grade. That's because there is an exam at the end that helps to determine the quality of the next school you attend, and in some part at least, whether you will go to a school that will allow you to go to college.  A lot is determined at a young age.  After primary school, students typically attend a school that includes (our) 5th - 12 grade, although 5th-8th is fairly distinct from 9th-12th.  The numbering here starts over, so Carissa is in 1st Class (5th grade) and Matthew in 5th Class (9th grade). These schools can be college-prep or vocational, focus on music or art, and all things and levels in-between.  This particular school is generally college-prep, with also a non-college bound program.  Many of the parents are not focused on their children attending college, so some of the university-bound students move to another school for the last 4 years of high school.



There are 4 - 6 classes in each grade, with about 20 kids/class so the school has around 900 students.  With the way the school is structured, and with all grades on their own schedules, it doesn't feel that big.  Our kids typically go from 8 am until around 1:45 (6 periods a day).  They have 2 "longer" breaks of about 15 minutes between a few classes, but no long break for lunch, which they have when they get home around 2:00.  Both kids report that after any particular class (which last about 50 minutes each), the teacher leaves and the kids just "mess around", totally unattended for 5-10 minutes until the next teacher arrives.  In the schools here, the teachers move and the kids stay in the same room, except for labs, art, or other specialized classes.  The rough-housing can get loud and physical and our kids tend to look-on but remain very separated. They find it very strange.  Matthew does have a 8th and 9th period on Mondays, which gives him about 1.5 hours for a break between his first 6 classes and the last two.  Both kids stay for a beginner German conversation class for non-native speakers once/week.  There are other extra-curricular activities, but nothing else the kids are interested in doing yet.

Most kids ride the buses/trams to school but some that are close by have another way:

A rack to lock your scooter up.

School here is very "teacher" friendly:  many things are arranged for teacher convenience, not for the ease of the student or parent.  They will sometimes get a list of required things for a class, or sometimes told of one or two items needed each day over a period of a week or two, requiring many trips to a local supply store.  Sometimes the item requested is very specific (size of paper, number of horizontal lines, number of vertical lines, number of pages, etc) and sometimes you are left guessing.  Then the next day, a new list, or list from another teacher, or.....You are also never sure if the students really need this item or will just use it one time. This keeps the teacher from having to think ahead to determine what a student may need, and can just request it as the idea hits them. Of course, this is normal here, so most parents accept the routine and go to the supply store after school most every day for a week or two.

So far Carissa has needed the most, including a long list of art supplies as well as supplies for a crafting class (fret saw, sandpaper, wood glue, utility knife, etc !!!) which have totaled around 100 euros.  Matthew has only needed a few things so far.

Because our kids are in the "Vienna Bilingual School", they sometimes (unpredictably) have a native speaker in the classroom.  This program was instituted in the district years ago, but has only been incorporated at this school in the last two years.  Other parents have told us that the program is "moderately good" at this school. The native speakers seem to appear for Carissa more than Matthew, although one is never sure when or where one will turn up.  After attending for a week, we received a notice that participating in this program requires we pay 230 euros per child for these speakers presence.  Surprise!  (And not the first one!)

Bundesrealgymnasium = "federal, college - prep, middle school and high school"

This week, Matthew is on a "Sports Week" with his class.  The last few years they have done a ski week in the winter but this year they decided on a sports week with ball games, tennis, rock climbing, kayaking, etc. He is having a great time.  Attendance is required and parents need to pay another 270 euros. Another Surprise!

In a few weeks, Carissa's class will go on a 2-night stay about 1.5 hours away for an "October Project", of yet undetermined purpose; she's been told it is something "about getting to know each other better". They will take a tour bus and stay in a "youth house" for two nights.  Sounds also like a great time. Please submit 206 euros.  Surprise!

Carissa is on the aisle, second row on the left; Frau Kromlosky is her homeroom teacher

Classrooms seem surprisingly "low-tech":  your basic tables and chairs, with cubbies in the back and lockers downstairs.  No computers, smart boards, computers.  But every child has a smart-phone.  When I showed friends the graphing calculators I brought in case the kids needed them, I was told they aren't allowed to use them - all work must be done by hand.  I'm not sure how much of this look is particular to this school or the whole district.

Although still nervous to speak, the kids are working on it.  There hasn't been much homework yet, which is good since we don't have loads of time.  We've been watching a movie about Sissi, the much loved wife of the Kaiser in the mid to late 1800's, which has the charm of Sound of Music and the feel of a 1970's James Bond movie.  Everyone was so happy and well-behaved then.  But it does help us listen to German.

Craig has been going to the office most days, and has started collaborating with colleagues. He is not in the math department, but at the Institute for Applied Chemistry. The department secretary brings her dog to the office so that adds to the charm.  (Did I mention that the Viennese love their dogs?) Someone in the department will come around and take orders for lunch from their restaurant of choice each day and they will all sit and eat together.  After the first few days, his primary colleague sheepishly entered Craig's office to tell him that they had misquoted his salary (a different department thought he was to be a full-time professor and visiting researcher) and since he was "only" a visitor to work with a few others, that his salary would be about 1/8 of what he was told.  Craig figured that the original figure was not realistic anyway, so is not inclined to say anything.  Friends (and me!) are encouraging him to make a case for a figure in-between. This is also because on the same day, my company informed me that due to visa requirements and tax issues, I would not be able to work from Vienna.  I will be considered "on leave" and will be happy to have the position back when I return.  But that would have been nice travel money for when we are here!  But, we will still travel.

We are very happy to have our TV/internet service resumed.  It had been established and did work for 2 days before it stopped.  When we called, they put us on the schedule for a technician for 10 days from our call!  It's a long time to live without being connected!  We used up all the data plan for the month from my phone as a hot spot while we were waiting.  But, we are again returned to the real (and virtual) world.  It's nice to be able to Skype, Google+ and communicate unhindered again!

My last post also mentioned "trains, buses, and trams".  This city has one of the best mass transit systems in the world and it is easy to get around.  We've decided not to buy a car, but it's easy to rent one when we wish to travel.  Almost no one who works near the inner city drives there - I think it's about $50/day to park. In fact, our district is one of the few that has unlimited local parking so people will drive here, park, and take the bus/train to work.  Even from the farthest point west, where we are, you can be to the inner city in less than 1/2 hour. School kids can buy a 60 euro pass that allows them to use all mass transit at any time for an entire year.  Craig buys a monthly pass, and at this point, I just buy trip/day/week passes as needed.  Mostly I walk - both because I love it and because I need to lose the "cheese/bread weight" I've gained since getting here.  None of us have ever been checked while riding (you just get on; there is no showing your pass to the driver).  Carissa loves the buses the best because they slope up in the back so you can sit up there and look down on all the cars around you.  I like the trams because it's so easy to jump on and off.  The train is great because it comes every 5 minutes so you don't even have to time it.  I've been going downtown twice a week for either coffee or a German class at a women's organization I have joined.

A few pictures of our recent explorations:

A view of Vienna from the Wiener Wald (Vienna Woods)

Carissa and Craig on a water ride at the Prater, an amusement park on an island in the Danube

Curiosities, Eccentricities, Oddities and Charming Discoveries

As always in a strange place, when in Rome, do as the Romans.  However, we are definitely not Romans! We are learning, however. We have discovered many interesting items and habits and thought we'd share them with you, just for some humor before returning to our "serious" lives in the next post.

"Austria - The Land of .... Sugar"
     It's amazing when you go to the grocery store.  Not only for the variety of new options, but looking at the labels is also an adventure.  Almost everything has sugar in it, oftentimes in large amounts.  You can't buy jam, peanut butter, salsa, cereal, etc. that don't have (usually large amounts of) added sugar.  I think the main difference between Americans and Austrians is not so much what they eat, but that Austrians just don't eat as much. I think they are beginning the "fattening of the continent", the process that America has perfected. (But as far as I can tell, the diet is awful.  However....it sure does taste good!) The most revolting thing we've found:  sauerkraut juice.

And how about these??!!  Eech.

Gallons of oil for the Wiener Schnitzel?!!

"Austria - The Land of .... Freud"
     Yup, he got his start here.  And you can tell.  You are never beyond a stone's throw of a therapist, a psychotherapy office, or an analyst.  And the Viennese seem to have enough neuroses to keep them all busy!

"This Place is Going to the Dogs"
     People take their dogs everywhere.  About the only place you won't find them is in the nicer restaurants. You see them on the buses and trains, stores and shops, walking anywhere.  Surprisingly enough, you rarely hear them.  Carissa is smitten by all the cute, little dogs which you see everywhere.  Her campaign to join the crowd of dog owners is going nowhere, though.
     It's definitely not going to the squirrels.  I've never seen people taking pictures of them as though they are endangered animals, but we did here.  The ones here are seen much less often, and seem to be smaller and usually reddish or black.

"Food on the Go"
    Eating and drinking here are events to be enjoyed and to spend time doing.  You will (almost) never see someone eating or drinking as they go, except for perhaps a sip of water.  It would just be a dis-service to the enjoyment of the meal/snack.

"Skinny (and everything else) Jeans"
     Skin tight pants and shirts are the norm among the under-25 crowd, and almost universal.  It doesn't seem too bad since it is the fashion, except when seen on older ladies, who feel that tights qualify as pants.  Generally people dress up more here when they are out.  You would (almost) never see anyone in sweats.  Despite doing a lot of walking, many ladies wear (very) high heels.  Being more practical, this is not the style of the typical American, but practicality takes a backseat to fashion and tradition here.  Have to admit that I like it.

"Smoke - Please"
     As Americans, we've gotten very used to not seeing or smelling people smoking.  Here, you have to get used to it again.  You see people smoking everywhere in public and in restaurants and coffee shops. Luckily, it is not allowed on the mass transit.

"Parents Rule"
     It sure seems that there is a different attitude to parenting here. I haven't seen this directly, so I am speculating. The adults continue living their lives and the kids are fit into it, instead of the current rule in America where the kids schedules dictate family life.  I kind-of prefer what I see here.  The kids have their own lives, are independent early, and the parents likely do not feel the loss of their own lives as much.  Of course, families are smaller, kids are louder, but I think it leads to a healthy attitude among the kids that the parents have a good life too and they are just one part of it, instead of the center of it.

"Airing out"
     Any time, during any weather, you will see windows wide open in most houses, often with blankets or duvets hanging out.  There is a strong feeling that you need to air out a house several times a day to stay healthy. I imagine this is important when people are living in such close quarters but in winter?  The windows allow for this; there are no screens and the windows are very large.  They usually tip open at the top or swing wide open, well into the house.
     Most yards and green spaces seem to be very lush and green and suffer from only "benign neglect".  That is, you rarely see short, manicured gardens.  Plants seem to be a bit overgrown, weeds are allowed to flourish, and no one seems to get worked up about any of it.
     They also don't seem to get worked up about the HUGE SLUGS that make their appearance after or during rain.  Soooo gross.  And if you accidentally step on one.....don't ask.

"Signs, signs, everywhere a sign"
   If I were Joe Boyle, I'd have awesome captions to go with these, or perhaps even make them a multiple choice questions!  I'll leave that up to him while you see if you can figure these out.  Answers in the next post if needed.  You can add comments below if you have a good one!

Green thumb?  NO!  The green hand!

     Seen one of these in the states recently?  

     They take credit/debit cards but they are still around everywhere!

How's this for a "calling card in your yard"?  Can you tell what he does?

"I Want to Ride My Bicycle" or "Look Ma, No Pedals"

     Have to admit, I've never seen adults riding scooters.  Here...you can't miss 'em.

     On the other hand, I love these "vehicles" below.  Apparently, they have become very popular in the last few years.  I think they are a great idea!

"Let's Just be Friends"

     The Austrian people as a whole (and as a stereotype) are not as overtly friendly as Americans.  They will rarely smile at you or seem to welcome overtures from strangers.  However, they are willing to help, and once engaged, they offer advice and love to practice their English (while clearly stating that they know "very little").

"SOS....I mean SMS"

     Cell phones are "handys".  To send a text, you "send an sms".  Seeing as the acronym 'sms' doesn't roll off the tongue, it's hard to get used to saying it instead of saying 'text'.

"Let's Play!"

     There are a few things that you wouldn't see in a (litigious) American playground.  There are others we'll send pictures of later.

 

"Wait a Minute Mr. Postman!"

     They have to work hard here.  Not only are we in a very hilly area, there are no motorized delivery vehicles.

"Things I Miss"

     Garbage Disposal.  "Normal" size refrigerator and washing machine.  Clothes Dryer.  Any kind of power is expensive (currently gasoline here is about $6/gallon) here so even the few with clothes dryers rarely use them.  But who ever thought that drying your sheets on small, portable drying racks was a good idea??!  I actually don't miss a car since driving here is nuts.  Many intersections have no signs; whoever is on the right goes first; sometimes.  There might be a right of way there. Or there might not. Not that you'd know.  Sometimes you can drive on the lane where the trams run.  There are endless numbers of one-way streets.  The traffic lights are extreme:  green, then blinking green, then yellow, then red.  (A warning for a warning I guess.)  You could get stopped for a train and sit for 10 minutes if another one is coming 5 or 6 minutes later.  You just shut off the car and wait. In general, you don't see people rushing around in a great hurry.  They appear to be more patient.

"Things I Like!"

     Cheap cell phone plans!  Recycling bins everywhere for everything! (I'm not sure how much the 'average' Austrian actually does this, though)  BYOB!!  (No, not beer/booze. That's plentiful and ubiquitous.  'bring your own bags' at the stores!)  Great bread!  Great cheese!  Fabulous gluten-free pizza crusts!  And shopping carts with all-wheel drive that can coast at angles down the aisles! And I love being in a bigger environment, where there is more diversity, clothes are louder, variety is everywhere, and you have more freedom to be who you are.

We'll have much more to tell in my next post in a few days:  we did some sightseeing (Schonbrunn and the Inner City, among others) and the kids started school.  It's been another week of adventure.  Sneak peek:  "Craig's salary slashed!!",  "Maria's salary non-existent", "Oh, you wanted your home internet for more than 2 days?  OK, we'll see you in 2 weeks."  "Bilingual school programs."  "Buses, trams and trains."  Be sure to tune in again.

I hope your days are full of adventure too!  Best wishes, Maria